Posh Spice
By Jo Kromberg
Photographs by Willie Smit
There is the suggestion of a breeze, languidly floating over the ocean in the setting sun.
Pine Cyprus trees line the road into Stone Town from the airport. It is hot, really hot in this tropical late afternoon in Zanzibar and I gape at the scenery unfolding as we drive.
Children languidly make their way home from school and road side hawkers loudly sell their wears between chats with friends. I have waited for years to see the spice island whose name runs off the tongue like golden, vanilla treacle.
I arrive at the astonishingly beautiful Zanzibar Serena Inn hotel. Idyllically situated on the sea front of ancient Stone Town, and flanked by an exotic mix of sultan?s palaces, Portuguese forts, ancient dhow harbours and bright bazaars, the hotel is the epitome of style amongst the bustle of one of Africa?s most ancient and enchanting towns. It has been styled to represent the epitome of Swahili style, ethnic elegance and Arabic opulence, to quote their website. With high ceilings, shuttered windows and cool white walls, the rooms are constructed in the traditional Swahili manner, whereby the size is dictated by the length of the mangrove poles that make up their ceilings. Adorned with arched niches, antique plates and brass lamps and featuring traditionally carved furniture with basket weave and ceramic inlay, the rooms are predominantly royal blue and white. The air is moist and fragrant. There is the suggestion of a breeze, languidly floating over the ocean in the setting sun. I walk outside onto my balcony after a glorious shower and drink in the sultry night and the softly lapping waves just beneath me. Daniel, the charming and extremely knowledgeable GM of the hotel joins me on the roof for a dinner of crayfish thermidor. The humidity fills the hot night like the Zambezi floods the plains of southern Africa after the rains. The waiter (whom I?ve never met) greets me by name and puts a bangle of jasmine on my arm. It is these little details that make this hotel so very special. They actively encourage family stays here as well and offer a wide range of family-friendly room options; children?s dining; baby-sitting, and plenty of adventure, sports and educational entertainment for children of all ages.
I fall asleep in my palatial bedroom that night to the sound of the soft waves and the aroma of spice in the night air. The next morning after a scrumptious breakfast, a Stone Town tour awaits. The town reminds me of a James Bond set with its millions of narrow alleyways and bustling crowds. My guide tells me the fascinating and turbulent history of this island as we stride along. Zanzibar is a semi-autonomous part of Tanzania, in East Africa. It comprises the Zanzibar Archipelago in the Indian Ocean, 25?50 kilometres (16?31 miles) off the coast of the mainland, and consists of numerous small islands and two large ones: Unguja (the main island, informally referred to as Zanzibar), and Pemba. Zanzibar?s main industries are spices, raffia, and tourism. In particular, the islands produce cloves, nutmeg, cinnamon and pepper. For this reason, the islands, together with Tanzania?s Mafia Island, are sometimes called the Spice Islands. Stone Town is the capital and a World Heritage Site. Former capital of the Zanzibar Sultanate, and flourishing centre of the spice trade as well as the slave trade in the 19th century, it retained its importance as the main city of Zanzibar during the period of the British protectorate. When Tanganyika and Zanzibar joined each other to form the United Republic of Tanzania, Zanzibar kept a semi-autonomous status, with Stone Town as its local government seat.
Stone Town is a city of prominent historical and artistic importance in East Africa. Its architecture, mostly dating back to the 19th century, reflects the diverse influences underlying the Swahili culture, with a unique mixture of Moorish, Arab, Persian, Indian and European elements and the beautifully adorned, world-famous doors attest to this. The market, noises, smells, alleyways and chaos everywhere exhibit the inhabitants in all their colours, their clothes, their voices and their smiles. It is advised to get a guide otherwise you will be accosted to no end. We have to hurry back since, to my great chagrin, I have a flight to catch.
I try to change my Precision Air flight to stay longer but to no avail ? one day simply isn?t nearly enough to even begin to glimpse the wonders of the lovely Serena and to uncover the magic and mysteries of Stone Town. I console myself with the fact that I will be back soon.
And so it is. Jump forward two weeks or so and I am on an early 1Time flight, grateful to leave a freezing Johannesburg, on my way back to paradise. This time we head straight to the coast, our destination Mapenzie Sandies Beach Resort, an hour?s drive or so.
The resort is as relaxed and informal as the name implies. It is barefoot beauty, the design and decor reflecting the Moorish/Arab influences. And here?s the thing about Mapenzie ? it is all inclusive! Aren?t those just two of the most beautiful words in any language? Our room is rather perfunctory and smells a bit like disinfectant but the sea view is gorgeous and we are meters from the palm fringed white beach with its ever-changing colours of the coral reef, and the water the temperature of your bath. Meals are served in the main dining room and all are buffet. The nights are hot and humid and the mozzies travel through you like fire ants through a cow carcass, so best you spray. The following morning I go for a long walk on the beach. Activities here include daily entertainment with an animation team for kids and adults alike, water sports and scuba diving, two swimming pools and a beach area especially for children.
The resort has family rooms as well and this ALL inclusive holiday will cost you a lot less than a week in the Kruger at a 4 star establishment. The following morning we set of to Sandies?s adjacent, luxurious and elegant sister resort, Diamonds Dream of Zanzibar ? a gargantuan trek of about 100 meters down the beach.
Located on the East Coast of Zanzibar, Diamonds is a superb 5 star (also all inclusive) resort nestled in the midst of exotic gardens on the beach front at Pwani Machangani overlooking the turquoise Indian Ocean. It offers 104 deluxe gardens rooms, 40 ocean view junior suites, 10 additional junior suites with Jacuzzi and three beach villas with private pool. The five restaurants offer an exceptional variety of dining options and the three bars feature relaxing environments to enjoy refreshing drinks and cocktails.
We are welcomed with a eucalyptus cloth and cool watermelon drink before being escorted to our beautiful junior suite.
The rooms are huge with DSTV, and air-con that works! We make ourselves very comfortable with pi?a coladas by the pool before lunch. And then lunch ? what a splendid affair! As we emerge from our room into the sultry damp dusk much later after an afternoon snooze, the aroma of barbeque wafts up to greet us from the beach.
We have a refreshing caparinia by the pool to the strains of the four story high swaying palm trees and live jazz. Dinner is an all-African buffet affair on the beach and they really go all out.
We laze about the pool the next day like sedentary tourists but the resort has a million activities to offer families ? a water sports centre with catamaran, windsurfing and canoe; bicycles; a multi-sports court, tennis court and jogging trail; beach volley and beach soccer and daily recreation activities for kids as well as darts, billiards and table tennis. We sample the Italian fare that evening for dinner and I am served simply the best pizza I have ever had. Our last day brings with it frolicking on the beach, playing volleyball and just generally behaving like the big children we are. The evenings? entertainment offers an incredible display of Masai jumping which leaves me speechless and hypnotised.
And then, like a beautiful dream, our trip is over before it properly began. I look back from the air at the island that will always have with it a piece of my heart. Zanzibar, of thee I sing?.
Contact Serena at www.serenahotels.com
Special Family Holiday and Leisure Reader?s Offer
10 days / 9 nights from R11,787.00 pp sharing
Includes:
*Return flights ex Johannesburg via Dar es Salaam with taxes and transfers
*7 night?s beach experience (including meals and select beverages) at Michamvi Sunset Bay
*2 night?s Stone Town experience at the 5 star Zanzibar Serena Inn (breakfast daily)
Terms and conditions:
Valid from 01 March 2012 ? 31 May 2012, subject to supplements over Easter period, availability and exchange rate fluctuations
For more information contact Rove Africa on Tel: +27 (011) 453 2790 or visit www.roveafrica.net.
We were flown to Zanzibar on the first leg of our trip by Precision Air ? a private Tanzanian airline providing scheduled, charter and scenic flight services out of Arusha, Dar es Salaam and Bukoba, with Zanzibar, Mafia, Nairobi and Mombasa forming part of their comprehensive flight network. Go to: www.precisionairtz.com.
The second leg of our journey to Zanzibar was kindly sponsored by 1time Airline.
Voted Africa?s Best Low Cost carrier in Africa, 1time not only flies to Zanzibar, but Livingstone and Mombasa as well. Domestic routes between OR Tambo International airport and Lanseria International Airport include the following destinations: Johannesburg, Durban, Cape Town, East London, Port Elizabeth and George. Home check-in is their newest offering. And yes you can pre-book your seat online from home. 1time also offers baggage insurance, pre-purchased online vouchers for catering on board, and premier lounge access as well as sms itinerary services. Their comfy leather seats and friendly onboard service will make your trip fabulous.
For more information, contact 1time at www.1time.co.za or 011 086 8000. 1time.
We were transferred by the very friendly and efficient Intrasafaris while in Zanzibar.
Contact them on Tel: +254 42 (0) 2120916 / +254 42 (0) 2130703 / Mobile: + 254 (0) 721 376928.
Email: ekabiru@intrasafaris.com / zanzibar@intrasafaris.com
Website: www.intrasafaris.com
Go to their website for the following once-in-a-lifetime experience:
2 nights / 3 days Ngorongoro crater:
Day 1: Transfer from Planhotel to ZNZ Airport. Board Zanair flight ZNZ/Arusha 11h30/12h50. Meet in Arusha Airport departure to Exploreans Ngorongoro ? arriving for late lunch. Dinner and overnight at the Exploreans Ngorongoro Lodge.
Day 2: Descend 2000 feet (over 600 meters) to the floor of the crater for a full day crater tour with picnic lunch. Explore the forest areas that are inhabited by monkeys and elephant, the lake area, where you may see the flamingos and the open savannah where the lions hunt for food. Dinner and overnight at Exploreans Ngorongoro Lodge.
Day 3: After breakfast transfer to Arusha Airport for Zanair flight back to ZNZ 12h15/13h45 OR 14h00/15h20. Meet and transfer to Planhotel.
Source: http://familyholidayandleisure.com/2012/07/zanzibar-serena-inn-hotel-2/
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